West Africa

Clay Kitsch Hotel

The Betamarribe tribe of the Natitingou have been called "the architects of earth", a moniker earned because of their traditional way of building sturdy clay huts called Tata. These castle-like huts were once key to the tribe's survival in the long battle against slave traders.

Hotel Tata Somba is the veritable oasis of Natitingou, built like a very large pink Tata-hut. Accommodation is basic, but the traveller worn out by the mountains might very well enjoy the kitschy milieu. There's a pool and a restaurant too, but if you're staying elsewhere, you can visit the pool for a fee.

www.hoteltatasomba.com

Music

You can't escape from great music in western Africa. This the home of such superstars as Fela Kuti, Youssou N'Douri and Mariam. Less known, but just as soulful and enchanting, is songstress Afia Mala from Togo. Mala has since emigrated to France. She's been performing since the 1970s and won the Best Female African Vocalist award in 1992. Her latest album was recorded in Cuba, and it combines the Caribbean rhythms of African exodus with ancient African musical traditions. Madventures recommends this aural trip to the French-speaking Africa!

www.afiamala.com

West African moonshine

Although French colonialism has made cheap and decent red wine widely available in Togo and Benin - unlike in many other African countries - the working man's choice of drink is still classic self-made hooch, or moonshine.

The locals say that moonshine is manufactured in every county, but some are more choice than others - be sure to ask locally for advice. The mash is usually produced from root vegetables - sweet potatoes and yams, etc.

The taste is very strong, but according to Madventures field research, not as disgusting as one would think. In fact, under severe and stressful conditions, yam-hooch goes down quite smoothly.

When visiting someone, it is polite to bring a bottle. Unscrew the cork and pour some on the ground to nourish the spirits; taste the drink yourself; and only then should you offer it to others. This way they know the moonshine is not poisoned, and they can enjoy it without hesitation.