Mediterranean Islands

For his Mediterranean adventure, Toby heads to the Aeolian Islands, a volcanic archipelago off the coast of Sicily. “I can guarantee you lots of volcanic activity,” he promises. Of the seven islands that make up the group, Toby is visiting just two – Stromboli and Vulcano. In the summer months, both of these can be accessed by ferry from Palermo, but Toby is travelling in style on a chartered catamaran. His sailboat is captained by husband and wife team Melissa and Francesco, so Toby is free to relax on deck.

As he sails towards Stromboli, Toby learns that the volcano on the island has been erupting for over 2,000 years. “I have to wonder – why do people live here?” Toby asks as they drop anchor near the black sand beach. After a quick poke around, Toby gets back on board the catamaran for the spectacular night-time pyrotechnics display put on by Stromboli’s smoking volcano.

The following morning, Toby catches a hydrofoil to Vulcano. In the blazing heat of the sun, he bravely hikes up the slope of the technically dormant volcano. Atop the peak, Toby is confronted with a barren, sulphurous landscape. “It is quite hellish up here,” he observes. “It feels like the end of the Earth.”

Meanwhile in Split, Julia jumps on a passenger ferry to explore two of Dalmatia’s outlying islands. Her initial impressions of her Croatian experience are not too favourable. “It’s like some sort of 70s bingo hall,” she says of her on-board surroundings. Fortunately, Julia’s first destination, Vis, more than compensates for the smoky ferry ride. With its clear seas, quiet coves and charming countryside, Vis provides the perfect place to unwind.

To get her tour underway, Julia hires Babe – a bright yellow VW Beetle convertible. One fifth of Vis is covered in vineyards, so Julia’s first stop is a local winery. The distillery produces a white wine called Vugava, which comes from a grape unique to the island. Julia swills some of the organically grown brew, but is quick to spit it out. “I’m driving – what a waste!” she exclaims. Then Julia and Babe hit the road again in search of a secluded cove – and it is not long before they find just the place. “You don’t find many spots like this in the world any more,” says Julia as she dives into the bay’s sparkling waters.

As evening falls, Julia has worked up a bit of an appetite, so she decides to dine out at the delightful Villa Kaliopa. With its outdoor tables and fine seafood and meat dishes, the restaurant is at the top end of the dining scale. Julia wants to try a bit of everything on offer, so she orders lamb, tuna carpaccio, pasta with clams and freshly caught fish. After her sumptuous meal, Julia is suitably impressed. “If that is the Vis way of doing things, it’s worth coming here,” she concludes.

The next day, Julia says goodbye to Vis and journeys to the region’s largest and most popular island – Hvar. From the bustling port, it is a short hop by water taxi to Carpe Diem Beach. The luxurious new resort comes complete with sun loungers and a seaside plunge pool. “It’s all very Ibiza cool,” notes Julia. After a relaxing day lounging by the sea, there is only one spot to while away the evening – the onsite bar. The place is packed to the gunwales, and the bartenders are serving up flaming cocktails. “I don’t need to tell you it’s boiling by the bar, but everybody’s loving it!” shouts Julia.